Holy Holi, festival of colour

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is it safe to go inside?

It just so happened my current location was Pushkar where I experienced the Festival of Colour, Holi. The Hindu festival is said to celebrate the beginning of Spring and colour it brings, to bridge gaps and renew relationships and originally to celebrate good harvests as well as Hindu theological significances.

Two things worked in my favour for my first Holi; Pushkar being a holy city it is well celebrated and having a good group of friends around me I felt safer. I was told it’s not a good idea to go out alone, especially if you’re a woman as it can become intense with many hands smearing and throwing colour on you.  

The main square outside the chai shop is where the celebrations take place. An incredible sound system is set up and booms psychedelic trance; appropriate music for surreality blended with rainbow clouds of colour amidst the dancing. 

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in full swing

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the aftermath

Holi is a full power celebration and for locals (and foreigners) can lead to drinking, bountiful bhang (marijuana) lassi followed by the expected aftermath of fun, chaos and being covered head to toe in bright colour leaving you barely recognisable. Even though we were already half-coloured before leaving the guest house it didn’t take long to have remaining areas coloured in.

Warning: Holi takes at least six washes of hard scrubbing before skin and hair beings to look human again; however more washes are required for light coloured hair and clothing.

As I said before, the people of Pushkar need no excuse to have a celebration. Below are just a few I captured while there.

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barely coloured, yet…

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An incarnation of the Indian monkey god Hanuman

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Around Pushkar and the eating habits of a few resident turtles

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A small temple on top of the hill

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View of Pushkar at sunset from a nearby hill

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Temple

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Distant hills

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There was no restaurant, just a temple, some ruins and a beautiful view

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I learnt that turtles like to eat cucumber…

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…tomatoes and aloo (potato)

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Exploring the desert like terrain, the hills and temples around Pushkar

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Wild flowering red cactus

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Enormous, majestic and magical banyan tree

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View from the hill

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The thinker

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Curious

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The left out monkey?

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Monkeys and peacocks in the distance

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Paalash – the flame of the desert – important symbols of Holi, Shivratri; Hindu festivals and theology

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Walking through a metal detector to enter a mosque, Ajmer

What a place called Pushkar!

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Pushkar street art and a well posed cow

Pushkar is definately a special place and for a wonderful month while it was home I realised two things: 1. I could have stayed longer and 2. I will eventually be back. In the end I didn’t make it to Jaipur (where I was headed), instead I made a last minute decision and stayed on the train until Ajmer.

After taking a local bus for a quick 20 minutes I reached Pushkar, nothing compared to the last 32 hour train ride from Gokarna! Lucky I had good company and a good night sleep on the very adequate, well stocked with chai and other Indian culinary delights, non-a/c sleeper train (in my opinion the best travel choice).

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Lake view

Pushkar is located in the state of Rajasthan and a holy place; one of the five sacred pilgrimage sites for Hindus. The town of Pushkar surrounds a central lake where there are numerous ghats used for bathing (apparently 52 however I didn’t count them) and even more temples (I have heard anywhere from 500 to 2000).

Pushkar has a theological connection to Lord Shiva as the lake was believed to be formed by Shiva’s tears; mourning the death of his wife Sati. Due to the large number of temples it is almost impossible to avoid offering pooja; a ceremony held by a holy man where you (and your family) are blessed, an offering of flowers and rice placed into the lake then a red and white coloured string tied around your wrist (your Pushkar VIP band) and a donation given (used for the upkeep of the temples).

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Jaipur ghat

Pushkar is an animal lovers paradise. Every morning offerings of grain is given to the animals surrounding the lake and walking around it’s impossible to not encounter cows, swans, monkeys, pigeons and dogs (usually sleeping during the day after a long night of noisy territorial disputes).

cowPushkar has the most beautiful scented roses my nose has ever had the pleasure of smelling and there are many people selling flowers for pooja offerings. The perfumed oils and incense sticks come highly recommended and for just a few dollars you can purchase a bottle of absolutely divine Pushkar rose perfume oil and take a piece of Pushkar home with you. 

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Pushkar is well known for its clothing and many foreigners visit each year to buy clothing, jewellery and other unique items to take with them to sell overseas. Even if you’re not doing business (many people start after visiting and I am no exception) Pushkar is a shoppers paradise.

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I came to learn that Pushkar is a popular next stop after Gokarna and for the next few weeks I enjoyed seeing familiar faces from Kudle beach. Much time was spent exploring Pushkar and surrounding areas, learning the clothing business and some wire jewellery making, eating, drinking chai at the central square (a great place to meet people) and place to watch the festivities (every night there was different celebration). 

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Note: Pushkar is a holy place where alcohol and meat (including eggs) are not allowed. Of course if you look hard enough you can find them but for the most part I’m a believer in respecting my surroundings, especially when immersed in a different culture and believe it’s good to do without occasionally. Shoulders and knees should be kept covered and there are no shoes to be worn and no smoking around the lake.

If you are approached by a man offering you a flower it will most likely be to take part in a pooja ceremony and if you have already have and don’t want to again then you can show your wrist band.

There are many gypsy’s living around Pushkar; the women sell jewellery and do henna while the men play on home-made violin-like instruments which create an incredible sound. This is how they make their money and you will be expected to pay to listen to them play; it’s nice to experience this at least once. There are many gypsy’s outside the Sunset Café where many people gather each evening to watch the sunset and play music.

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Breakfast in the central square

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monkey

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Pushkar sunset

Warming up for Shivratri

The question was asked to me: ”Tonight would you like to go and spend a night on a deserted beach?” Absolutely! Well I wouldn’t want to alone, but since there were more than twenty of us I was definitely keen to go on this adventure. It was about time too; for the last week or so we had been talking about it but every day the same unanimous response – perhaps tomorrow? Tomorrow had finally arrived.

Feeling lazy (this was quite common for the Kudle beach dwellers stuck in it’s time warp) I decided to take the easy route there and take a place on a small boat that was captained by two local men. One man stood up the front of the boat navigating and was difficult not to notice as he was dressed only in a red pair of tattered, well-worn briefs; not leaving much at all to the imagination. I tried to focus instead on the scenic view as we passed by the beautiful coastline.

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Overlooking Gokarna beach

I had already enjoyed a wonderfully relaxed five weeks on Kudle beach (Gokarna) and had now mentally prepared myself to leave on the next train to Jaipur; leaving just once a week on Monday. Tomorrow (the day to do something on Kudle as there’s always tomorrow…) had arrived. Not wanting to wait another week for the next train meant I had only one afternoon to make the walk to Gokarna and experience the beginning of Shivratri.

A week previous I started to see the town’s streets kept cleaner than usual and decorated by hanging endless colourful fabric overhead. The festival spirit was permeating from every temple and spilling out onto the streets.

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To be honest there was not much to see on the first evening of Shivratri. It was clear that the peak excitement was being saved for the moment when everyone gathers on the main street and in houses above to throw bananas into windows of a giant wooden chariot where several Brahmins sit. Yes, you heard right, everyone, no matter what background or caste, foreigner or local is expected to be throwing bananas at the holy men; trying to perfect their aim and hopefully hit one. 

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Everyone gets involved in pulling a rope attached to the giant chariot down the main street. Sounds like a crazy video game to me… The giant wooden chariot has been on the main street since I arrived in Gokarna, more than six weeks previous and I’d been wondering what it’s purpose was. Not in my wildest imagination would I have come up with this scenario!

After the excitement finishes, bananas have run out and streets quieten, out come the monkeys, cows and other stray animals who feast in banana heaven. I think this mega-feast would have been almost as good to experience as throwing bananas at Brahmins… almost.

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Collecting the freshest spring water you have ever tasted and receiving a blessing at the same time (can’t remember from whom)

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Pilgrimage to Gokarna

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As unenthusiastic as the photo looks they were very excited for me to take their family portrait

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Two wise old owls watching over

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The mesmerising sound of the sitar

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Farewell for now Kudle…

Paradise on Paradise

The question was asked to me: ”Tonight would you like to go and spend a night on a deserted beach?” Absolutely! Well I wouldn’t want to alone, but since there were more than twenty of us I was definitely keen to go on this adventure. It was about time too; for the last week or so we had been talking about it but every day the same unanimous response – perhaps tomorrow? Tomorrow had finally arrived.

Feeling lazy (this was quite common for the Kudle beach dwellers stuck in it’s time warp) I decided to take the easy route there and take a place on a small boat that was captained by two local men. One man stood up the front of the boat navigating and was difficult not to notice as he was dressed only in a red pair of tattered, well-worn briefs; not leaving much at all to the imagination. I tried to focus instead on the scenic view as we passed by the beautiful coastline.

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Paradise beach is the fourth and final beach along from Kudle and is known for having hippy colonies living there over the years in the milder months from November to March. Recently in February I heard the police had arrived, demolished the huts and told the people they had to leave. There are no shops or places to stay on Paradise, so this, along with the complete sense of freedom and disconnection from the outside world for a time would definitely appeal to me also. However for now one night would have to do. 

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Thinking that we would have to bring food, water and supplies or starve, we all carried a few things with us to eat and drink. When we arrived there was a small stall set up outside with convenient items such as water, soft-drink, fruit and snack foods, run by a few local men. It wasn’t long before they had us writing them a shopping list of things we would like them to collect from town and bring back to us. So much for roughing it! A few hours later they returned with a box of 50 fresh, hot samosas we had ordered – delicious! As well as other essentials such as water and mixer for the many bottles of Old Monk rum we had floating around (an essential for a night on a deserted beach).

 

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What an amazing time we had! Twenty-something nomadic travellers aged between twenty and sixty plus years from many backgrounds and walks of life. While travelling (and from life in general) I am always so inspired by the many hobbies and interests that exist and this night was no exception; from slack-line to the array of instruments and beautiful voices, hoop, fire poi, human pyramid making (they rarely have a smooth ending) to the ancient Japanese art of rope bondage…

How to build a human pyramid

You will need: approximately ten adventurous individuals, with or without intoxicants (can be easier with) willing to enter into an activity usually done by trained professionals

Step one: it is important to have a strong and sturdy base (better to have those least intoxicated on the bottom)

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Step two: carefully climb to make the next few layers, trying not to collapse the pyramid or dig your knees into those under you. Here it can start to get shaky

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Step three: the grand finale – there’s always someone who thinks it’s a good idea to take a running leap to get on top of the pyramid…

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Step four: …all fall down and laugh and laugh and laugh… Yes, it is as much fun as it looks!

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The night’s sleep (or lack thereof) was not as enjoyable as the rest. I had not put much thought into how cold and windy it was going to be on the beach and my paper thin yoga mat and thin cotton sheet didn’t at all keep me warm, comfortable or asleep for very long. Awoken by the sun we spent the next few hours eating a nutritious breakfast of fruit and Idli (south Indian breakfast dish of ground rice, chutney and curry) delivered by our local friends, swimming and enjoying. I decided to walk back to Kudle, however not smart at midday in the thirty plus degree heat climbing and scaling the coastline and hot rocks. I made it back to Kudle and enjoyed one of the most refreshing showers I have ever had.